Using a serpentine is an effective way to cope with a plugged drain. Using a serpentine plumbing in this manner is commonly called snaking a drain and can be done with different drains fixtures such as toilets, sinks, bathtubs and other plumbing. The serpentine pigtail is introduced through the drain to remove blockages that often are too deep to reach for the plungers.
Choose the appropriate serpentine
Different plumbing coils are suitable for different drains. A toilet or toilet streamer is especially suitable for navigating the curves and turns of a toilet drain to reach a blockage. Other augers are longer and are more suitable for sink and bath drains. An electric coil, which has its own engine attached and thicker and longer cable is most suitable for larger pipes up to 10 inches (25 cm) in diameter.
Prevents excessive force
When resistance occurs when the coil passes through the drain, excessive force can damage the installation you are trying to uncover. This is especially true when you snake a toilet drain. Not only can you mark the cup, you can also slice it. When you encounter the resistance, which indicates that you have reached the block, turn the handle of the serpentine counterclockwise and gently pull again on the body of the serpentine. Once outside, resume by turning the handle to the right.
When using an electric drill, you will not feel resistance, but you will notice that the sound of the drill motor “decreases.” Invert the engine at that time and remove the coil. Then move forward again.
Avoid uncovering after using chemicals
If you have poured chemical cleaner into the drain to break the blockage, avoid using a drill in the drain immediately afterwards. You can sprinkle chemicals on your skin, which can cause burns.
Try a different approach
If you are winding a sink drain, for example, and you cannot overcome the trap under the sink, remove the trap. Place a bucket underneath to collect the liquid. If the jam is not in the trap itself, insert the serpentine into the tube from the point beyond the trap. If you cannot reach an obstruction by snaking through a bath drain, remove the overflow plate from the bath and insert the coil through the drain pipe.
Plumbing in the winter can be very problematic. For those of us who have just bought our first home, or perhaps just moved to a region of the country that is very cold in winter, we may have little or no idea what to do with our tubes and pipes for the winter. The following is an overview of some of the things you can do to protect your pipes this winter and avoid the exorbitant repair costs associated with winter plumbing problems.
Kitchen and Bath Sinks – kitchen and bathroom sinks some are often placed with tubes near an outside, uninsulated and exposed the house, as the outer wall of the structure. These pipes and fittings may be the first to freeze in the winter. A great, simple suggestion to prevent these types of accidents is to simply leave the doors under the opening of the sink in this way, the warm air inside your house will work to keep the tubes at a safe temperature.
Pipes for – For kitchen sink pipes exposed directly, you can also isolate. If you want to grope a do-it-yourself solution, use electric heating tape to wrap and then cover them with some type of foam insulation. If you are not sure of the process, consulting with a licensed professional plumber to take care of this for you is always a good idea.
Exterior carpentry – A professional plumber can call Sill-cocks, but most of us just call them good or ‘ “taps” or “pins”. These external elements are often left untreated and filled with water during the winter, which leads to large (and expensive) problems in a home. Make sure you have drained all the water from these external water elements before the winter months arrive, and also consider the covers with the insulation. Again, a licensed plumber can do it quickly and correctly, so consider communicating one if you are at all interested in doing things right.
Water Stop – External elements also need the water is sent to them from inside the house out. If you have a holiday home or second home that you are vacating for the winter, be sure to turn off the entire water supply and evacuate the entire system. Leaks and pipes are frozen in an empty house are the fastest way to ratchet repair costs in the home.
The term “work” when applied to plumbing, means placing all pipes in a house new without making connections. Contractors normally do plumbing work while the house is on the stage of the structure because it is there when it is easier to lay the pipes through walls and floors. The builder can save a lot of grief head to diagram the supply of water and drainage systems, and review them with a certified plumber to check that no code violations before installation.
The water system
- Draw a diagram of the water supply system, showing all pipe angles and sizes exactly as you intend to install them. This will save you many trips to the hardware store by making sure you have enough tubing and all the correct connections at hand.
- Use “L” or “M” copper pipe, or “Schedule 40” PVC pipe if your local codes allow. It uses ¾-inch tubing for all major supplies and ½-inch for branches to individual artifacts.
- Make all the welds on the copper with lead-free material. Clean the pipes thoroughly, scatter flux at both ends of the connection and heat the pipe with the propane torch. When the flux begins to smoke and bubble, remove the heat and touch with the tip of a welding rod the connection, allowing the material to slide into the joint.
- Lay the water lines through holes previously made in the uprights. Make sure these holes are slightly larger than the pipes and that they are located at least one inch from the front of the uprights to avoid punctures of screws or nails.
- All pipes that will come out of the wall to connect with appliances must be secured firmly to the stud with metal tape.
The drainage system
- Draw a diagram of the drainage system showing all lines of waste and discharge, and all angles exactly as you plan to install them.
- Use Schedule 40 ABS tubing for the drain system. Make sure all installed pipes have a 1/8 to 1/4 inch pitch per foot.
- Connect the ABS pipes by gluing them with ABS pipe. Use the brush that comes with the glue can to spread it on both sides of the connection. Slip the pipes into each other, making sure they are fully seated, and give them a small twist so the glue spreads evenly.
- Uses 2-inch pipe for sink and shower drains, and 3-inch for lavatory drains. Where three or more lines are joined in one, use a 3-inch pipe for the common line. Discharge all lines in a vertical pipe that goes through the ceiling or walls, or connect with one that does.
- Lay the drainage lines laterally through the uprights by notching them with a reciprocating saw, being careful not to weaken the upright to the point that it no longer serves as a support. Cover the open side of the notch with a metal plate to prevent screws or nails from pinching the spout. Use metal tape to hang the drain lines of the floor beams in the basement or the bottom of the house. Be sure to maintain the required slope on all pipes.
Tips & Warnings
- It is a good idea to install a drain at the lowest point of the water line so that it can be easily drained from the system when repairs are due.
- Use pressurized air to verify that the water system does not leak before making the final connections. Welds are very difficult to redo once there is water in the line because it vaporizes and prevents the pipe from reaching the temperature sufficient to melt the weld metal.
When you add a new toilet or maybe a second toilet, you will need to know how to lead in the bathroom plumbing. Most homes already have a main plumbing stack on the wall, so all you need to do is connect the toilet to that sink. This job is not difficult and can be completed in just a few hours on a weekend day.
- Cut the wall where the plumbing stack tube is located. Use a drywall knife. Cut a section that treats upstream upright, 16 or 24 inches wide and 2 feet high.
- Inspect the battery to see what type of pipe material is made of. Concrete, clay pipe and gypsum can be cut the same way. Plastic pipes cut differently.
- Position a 4-inch non-hub wye against the pipe in the plumbing stack where you make the cut. Mark the location of the wye connection with a branded pen, so you can do the cut in the pipe from the plumbing stack.
- Cut a section of the concrete, plaster or clay pipe with a saber saw.
- Do not place the elastomer hub over the section of the cutter tube and tighten the hose clamps to each side with a screwdriver.
- Measure 12 inches from the wall out toward the bathroom. The 12-inch center will be the center of the toilet drain. Mark the location on the exposed floor with a brand pen.
- Install toilet flush slightly below floor level. Fix it to the floor with screws or nails. This will depend on what type of soil you have. Use wood floor screws or concrete nails for concrete floors. Use a hammer or drill with screw bits.
- Place a 4-inch long sweep free on the bottom of the toilet drain. Then cut a piece of 4-inch ABS tube with a saw to not connect the hub to the rest of the toilet drain that you just put. Dry-fit all for now, before making any hits.
- Disconnect dry connections once properly equipped.
- ABS put cleaner on each ABS mounting, both inside and outside. Do the same with the glue. Fix and glue each piece from the drain of the toilet to the drain heap. The last piece of ABS tube Slide the non-hub fitting and tighten the last hose clamp.
Vertical section of the septic tank
The septic tank is a closed chamber that serves to facilitate the decomposition and separation of the organic matter contained in sewage, using the work of bacteria existing in the same waters.
As a result of this process, the organic matter is transformed into gases, liquid and a black mass called mud, which is deposited in the bottom of the tank.
Its purpose is to intercept the fats and soaps present in the water to avoid that the infiltration field becomes impermeable and does not fulfill its function of absorbing the liquid coming from the septic tank.
Its function is to collect the liquid from the Septic well and facilitate its uniform distribution, also allowing inspecting the pipes in case of malfunction or during the periodic inspections of the system.
Placing the pipe in the trench
The pipe placed on the outside of the building is called the Line of Conduction and it uses 4 “diameter sanitary pipe, installed in ditches of 45 to 60 cm. With a slope between 1 and 2% of the pipe between the building and the septic tank and between 2 and 20% between the septic tank and the distribution box.
They are constructed of plain concrete or brick stuck with mortar cement 1: 3 (this link I detail as concrete cure: Cured concrete) and are square in shape with sides of 45-60 cm. of length. A fescue formed with lean concrete joins the mouths of the inlet and outlet. The lid of the box is a thin concrete slab reinforced constructed to prevent the escape of odors.
Location of the septic tank
In order to build the system, the drains of the bathroom and the kitchen and laundry drains separately in two pipes. The first goes directly to the tank while the second goes to a box of grease before it empties into the same tank pipe.
If there is one bad thing about indoor plumbing, it is that the pipes are so often noisy. A hygienic wash is usually the worst offender, but running tap water alone can cause a variety of plumbing sounds. By touching hot water pipes, loose pipes collide within your walls or the whistling of wastewater flowing through the drain pipes – each arises from distinct causes but can be combined to create a symphony of water inside your home. To stop the strong drainage pipes, it really is only a practical solution: insulate the drain pipes with sound insulation of the pipe.
- Find the length of the drain pipe you want to be soundproof. Multiple tubes, monitoring the measurements separately.
- Measure the outside diameter of each drain pipe you want to sound insulated. Pipe diameter is particularly important with the insulation of the closed cell foam pipe, which looks like a long foam tube and should fit the tube tightly. While you can modify to reduce more, it is easier to buy the right size instead.
- Each drain tube with warm soapy water and a clean cloth. Dry with another cloth and wait for all moisture to evaporate before proceeding. This is especially important with tube envelopes (in contrast to molding foams for pipes) which are self-adhesion or should be glued to the tube. Wrapping insulation tube that is glued to the pipe on the outside are not affected by dirt and oils, however.
- Cut the soundproofing material pipes to the required extent, as appropriate. In general, sharp scissors or a knife are the recommended cutting tools. Consult the manufacturer’s specific instructions: foam pipe insulation sound insulation usually needs to be cut to length and then slit to the longitudinal side to allow installation. Wraps, on the other hand, should overlap the sides as well as cut the material to length.
- Peel the backing of the peel-and-stick wrapping soundproofing to prepare it for the pipe. On the other hand, extend the recommended adhesive product – called adhesive pipe insulation and is designed to be used with foam, around the pipe in a thin, even layer or skip this step if you call the product instructions to burn in your Place the insulation in place.
- Fit foam insulation around the pipe and press it into place to seal for the glue, if used. To wrap installation, they form the material to the pipe and press the pipe while working to ensure that it adheres properly. Continue along the pipe, installation in the same way. Overlap the material at the sides or ends only as directed by the product manufacturer.
- Circle the circumference of the tube with adhesive tape or the recommended tape product if the insulation is intended to be recorded in place. Follow the instructions exactly for the best results.
- Seal the seams, if directed, by bringing together the raw edges and coating the exposed edges with additional adhesive. Press and hold until the insulation runs out.
Tips & Warnings
- They do not cover access points in the plumbing, such as a cleaning, with soundproofing wrap or foam. Leave a space, instead, the sound leakage should be insignificant.
- Other methods of limiting pipe noise transmission include blowing in insulation to fill the post or joist area surrounding the pipe, structure methods such as securing pipes do not touch the structure and soundproofed panels that block noise. For best results, study your options and use more than one method for sound control.
- Foam products are non-flame retardant. Never install any foam products near open flames or heat sources.
Cast iron pipes are in most houses built before 1960, as the builder asks. This is because cast iron is durable and durable. However, rust tends to accumulate over time in this type of pipe due to constant exposure to moisture, and this can cause the pipe to become clogged. Loosening a stuck cast iron sewer pipe may seem impossible, but if you use the right tools and pipe materials it will loosen up without much struggle.
- Close the water supply to the main line pipe.
- Spray an oil-based lubricant around the piping installation and allow the oxide to dissolve for three to four minutes. This will generally allow you to turn the glued pipe. If not, proceed to the next step.
- Radian pipe installation abruptly a couple of times with a hammer or other metal tool. Sometimes this loosen the rusted debris in the threads and remove the tube.
- Add more oil-based lubricant to the tube after hitting it. Leave the lubricant in the area for about 15 or 20 minutes. Place two pipe wrenches over the area with one in the assembly and the other around the pipe. Press one key and pull the other in opposite directions. Repeat this process until the tube is free.
Tips & Warnings
- Call a plumber to solve the pipe problem if it cannot be removed using the above methods. Plumbing has special tools that they use to remedy such situations.
PEX pipe is generally used for radiant heat installations. However, it turns out that more are now being used for hot and cold piping systems. PEX Pipe is strong and flexible and can be used in cold and hot temperatures. It’s expensive but it’s worth the money if you can afford it because when you use pex pipe, you will not have to worry about freezing pipes or passing you through the cold weather. PEX is also easy to install and resistant to chemicals found in the plumbing environment.
- Measure the pex pipe you will need for installation. Cut with the pipe cutter. The pipe cutter is specially designed for pex pipes and should always be used for this type of installation. Put a copper ring on the tube once it is cut to the length you need.
- Insert the tube into the fitting. Be sure to fit the shoulder of the accessory. Slide the copper crimp ring upward to make it 1/8 to 1/4 inch away from the pipe.
- Ring test crimped with flow meter. The flow meter slides right into the fitting easily. It can be adjusted from the tool that presses the surface during the pressing process. The flow meter should not slide over the trim. If this happens, you will have to do it all over again.
- Inspect your work. It is very important that it is done correctly. If the ring is crushed by the tube, then there are not enough ribs covered. If the crimp tool is not in 90 degrees, the plastic is damaged and there will not be enough rib coverage. If the copper ring that is pressed is not completely covered by the tool that presses, then the ring is twisted with a non-pressing. Also, if the pipe is not cut squarely the pipe will not cover the ribs of the fitting properly. All of these can cause a risk of leakage and a bad connection.
- Run the next row of pipes. Put in your next taps and repeat steps one through four for the rest of the pex tubing.
- Make sure a loop in which is no more than 8 times the width of the pex pipe. The reason for this is because pex is installed different from PVC and copper tube. Settings should be made for pex for every 10 degrees of temperature change. PEX reduces one inch every 100 feet of pipe with every 10 degrees of temperature change.
Tips & Warnings
- Use straps and hooks when installing pex plumbing because the pex should lean every 32 inches if the pipe is installed along a beam. If you are installing the pex on top of a beam, support the pex every 6 feet.
- Always leave some slack in the pipe for contraction.
- Make sure that the support hooks are not too tight because they reduce the movement of the pex.
PEX Pipe is easier to install than any other type of pipe because you only need two connections, a T-shirt and a shirt. You do not need to use elbows to weld these types of pipes, and you do not need glue. PEX Pipe is best in winter because it expands and does not split. It can be expensive to buy at first, but it saves you money in the long run because it is more durable and lasts longer than the PVC pipe. Installation pex tube can be a simple process as you have the knowledge of plumbing and the right tools.
- Turn the water off. Connect the blue pex piping to the main line to the house. Connect using the pex clamps and one of the connections, which would be a sleeve. Place the blue pex tube near the hot water tank and attach a tee to the pipe that you just placed through the hot water tank. Place a pex clamp to it with a peg wrench.
- Connect a piece of the blue pex tube to the top of the and fix it. Connect it to the cold part of the hot water tank.
- Mark the areas of the house by the basement where the cold water will run with a pencil or marker. It is in the bathroom, the kitchen and the laundry. Use the drill to drill the holes through the ground below the areas you have the blue pex pipe.
- Connect the blue piece of the pex pipe to the t that is connected to the hot water tank. Drill the holes through the ceiling joist where the first cold water connection will be connected to the house. Run the blue pex pipe through the holes you have drilled. When you get to where you will connect for the upstairs, put a t on and fix it with the clamp.
- Drill through the floor joist where you want your next connection to operate at home. Measure the distance with the tape measure. Cut the blue pex tube to the shirt and carefully run the holes in the floor joist to the place where it will be placed in the house. Continue to do this until you reach the last connection found in the house. Run the tube up through the floor.
- Measure from the first tee on up through the hole you put in the floor to the cold part of the key. Blue pex pipe measure. Take the measurements just after the cold water faucet, measure the pex pipe and cut it.
- Run the pipe pex up through the floor and connect to the t with the clamp. Connect to faucet. Continue to do so until all the cold water lines are made.
- Measure the hot water tank for the first hot water faucet in the house. Drill holes through the joist. Measure of red pex pipe, which is for hot water. Take the measurements you took only the hot water tank where you put the first tee, and use them to cut the first piece of the red pex pipe. Connect the red pex tube to the hot water tank and run it through the joist of the floor. He put on a T-shirt and fastened it with the clamp.
- Measure from the tee to the next place where the hot water is running on the top floor. Drill the holes. Take measurements from the first tee to the second tee and cut off the red pex tube. Run the red pex tube through the holes you have drilled and hook the first tee. Place a t at the other end of the red pex pipe and fix it with the clamp. Continue doing this until you are on the last connection. Drill a hole through the floor and run to the last hot water inlet faucet.
- Drill a hole from each tee, straight to the floor. Measure from the tee to where the hot water will be connected to the faucets. Take measurements and cut the red tube pex. Put it on the tee and fasten it with the clamp. Climb up through the floor and fasten it with the clamp to the hot water faucets. Continue to do this with all the teas you put on. Reactivate the water. Check for leaks even though pex pipes generally do not leak.
Tips & Warnings
- Check all connections twice to make sure it is set before switching on the water.
Running the outside water lines can seem like a daunting task. If you use your water line from a source, for a sprinkler system or run an outside faucet, installing an outside water line does not have to be difficult, however. You can install short runs at no time in a hand-dug trench; you may be better off renting a trencher if you are installing a long pipe or a series of irrigation pipes.
- Mark the way for a long run of an outdoor water line with inverted brand paint. Turn the can upside down, with the nozzle down and spraying the lawn while you walk along. Measure the paint line with a measuring tape; Use the measure to buy the right amount of PVC pipes.
- Excavate a ditch for the pipe along the paint line with a hoe or trencher. Short hand thrust works with a trenching hoe in a biting motion, drag the ground up at a 45 degree angle. Set a trencher to the appropriate depth for water line purpose (below the line freezing supplies of the house, near the surface irrigation sources). Slowly engage the trencher and guide forward. Select any large rocks or debris from the trench.
- Begin mounting the PVC line from the water source using a suitable coupler. Construct the section of a tube at a time, glued to the end of the first section with PVC pipe cement and pushing firmly into a coupling. Repeat this for the length of the pipe, always glued before pressing a pipe into a coupler. They allow the sections glued to rest at the bottom of the trench while mounting the next section. Use T-connectors for irrigation systems where a sprinkler head will emerge from the ground. Construct the pipe to the point of completion, keeping as tight to the bottom of the trench as possible. Pair existing plumbing end if the line is a feed, or end cap for irrigation.
- Fill the pit with soil and tighten down.
Tips & Warnings
- Check the local codes for the exact plumbing size for your application. Depending on the use, such permission is required.
- Sow the grass seeds on the cool soil covering the pit. Seed the grass regularly until the contour of the water ditch disappears.
- Always call the 811 to have the various underground before digging a ditch.