How to install pipes for bathroom in the basement

To install plumbing for bathrooms in the basement, begin by locating the main drain pipe.

To do this, you will see in the basement a “pipe” or main pipe 3 to 4 inches down one of the walls. That is one of the ends of the main drainage pipe. There must be a drain connection next to the wall facing the street or it may be facing a vehicular access ramp.

The main drain probably runs directly from the main pipe to the drain. Mark the floor to show where the drain runs. Then, mark the floor where you want to go to install the drains of the toilets, the shower and the sink.

With a hammer, break the concrete along the main drain pipe. Dig an exploration hole or two next to the place where you anticipate that you will place the new pipe that will connect to the main drain pipe.

Do not worry if you have to dig several smaller holes until you find the drain pipe. You will need a hole about 2 to 3 feet long when you start working.

Once the drainage is located, you must verify that the bathroom in the basement you have planned will work with the design you have. Make any necessary changes to the design and clearly mark the basement floor with the locations of the new drainage pipes.

It is very important for the success of installing plumbing for bathrooms in the basement (and to obtain the approval of the construction inspector) that the pipes that run have a slope of ¼ inch per foot (consult local codes, as some areas require only ⅛ inch per foot). Make sure that the longest section of the new pipe has enough space above the main pipe to make the journey.

The simplest way to achieve this is by measuring the depth in inches from the basement floor at the beginning of the pipe run and where it joins the existing drain, then subtract one from the other and multiply by four. If you have a difference of 3 inches, for example, the maximum distance you can have is 12 feet.

Then, break the concrete for the new drains in the bathroom. Remember, the shower will need additional depth to accommodate a drain elbow. Both the toilet and the sink have their own drain elbows. While doing this, determine how the ventilation pipes will run.

Each drain has a ventilation pipe and the code says how big it needs to be. But since any pipe under concrete slabs must be at least 2 inches, it is best that the entire pipe be 2 inches, except for the toilet drain, which must be 3 or more inches.

When you have finished digging, assemble the pipe, but do not put adhesive on anything until you are sure it will work.

Now, break the cast iron drain to couple the Y connection. To do so, the simplest tool is a pressure pipe breaker that can make a clean break. If you do not have one, rent it.

If you are working with old cast iron, it is likely that you will simply break down, so you will have to use a metal arc saw. Cut the appropriate length to accommodate the Y-connection “no-hub” that can be cast iron or PVC.

Begin by assembling the drainage system making sure that the tilt is correct and that the vertical location of the drains is correct. You may have some flexibility in the position of the toilet and sink, but the location of the shower drain is critical.

When the drainage system is finished and with caps, ask the construction inspector to inspect and approve the new drainage system before filling the drainage ditch. Fill the holes up to three inches below the basement floor. Pour 3 inches of concrete to replace and level the floor.

Now you are ready to place the bathroom frames in the basement. Once you have placed the wooden frames, run the ventilation pipes of each drain. You can join them before coupling them with an existing ventilation pipe.

Do not add concrete to the area surrounding the shower drain. Leave it open to this point in case you need to reposition the drain when the base of the shower is framed. Once you know that the drain is positioned correctly, the last step to installing plumbing for bathrooms in the basement is to finish applying the concrete.

How to install unions in copper pipe

The usual way to fix connections to copper pipe is to sweat them, which means welding lead with solder. Sweat connections are permanent, so when you need to be able to separate the pipes, as you do when connected to a removable device such as a water heater, you need to install a Union. It is a special type of plumbing installation with two threaded halves and a central nut to hold them together. Joints for copper tubing can be made of copper or brass, and have sliding joints to make the connections.

Instructions

  1. Cut the copper tube with a pipe cutter if you are installing the Union in the middle of an existing line. Turn off the water, then unscrew the cutting disc, adjust the cutter around the tube and tighten the disc until the blade contacts the metal. Rotate the tool around the tube, tightening the disc in each turn until the tube separates. Let the water in the drain pipes in a bucket.
  2. Clean the ends of the tubes with a brush wire to eliminate oxidation and offer better bonding for welding. Some tube cutters have a brush attached for this purpose.
  3. Separate a union of brass or copper by unscrewing and removing the center nut. Disseminate the flow within the sliding connections in both halves of the Union and at both ends of the tubes that you want to form using the brush that comes with the flow. Slide each half of the Union into the end of one of the tubes.
  4. Heat one of the connections with a propane torch, holding the flame about six inches of metal. The flow back to black, liquefy and finally begin to bubble. When this happens, remove the flame.
  5. Touch the end of a lead coil from the weld on the joint immediately. The tin will melt and disappear in the joint, where they emerge from the connection to the pipe as it cools. Move the tip of the weld around the pipe to make sure that the weld fills the entire space between the fitting and the pipe. When one half of the connection is welded to a pipe, weld the other half to the other pipe in the same way. Allow the metal to cool for 10 to 20 minutes.
  6. Close the nut in one half of the Union, then join the tubes and continue screwing in the same direction. The opposite half of the Union has reverse thread to screw in one direction to tighten the nut in two halves. When you have tightened the nut with your hand as much as possible, continue tightening with a socket wrench.
  7. Turn over the water and check for leaks. If the Union is leaking, tighten the nut with the pipe wrench until it stops escaping.

Tips and warnings

  • Do not try to weld pipes that have water in them. The water vaporizes, and in doing so will absorb enough energy to keep the tubes hot enough to melt the solder enough to make a tight seal.
  • Safety glasses and copper accessories to protect your eyes from hot flow and sweat welding.

How to make homemade plumbing

With toilets using less water than ever flush and aerators in sinks giving less force taps, clogs are common. You could hire a plumber to fix a clogged drain, but that could get expensive. The tools for DIY plumbing projects are very cheap. Keeping a few basic tools on hand and knowing how to use them can save your family hundreds of dollars in plumbing bills. When any drainage of the problem solution, whether the toilet or the sink, the troubleshooting steps are the same; when one step does not work, go to the next step in order.

Instructions

  1. Pour 1 cup of baking soda and 1 cup of vinegar through the clogged drain. This mixture produces a chemical reaction to the oxygen reported and will generally have enough force to loosen an obstruction.
  2. Place the plunger over the clogged drain. If it is a double sink, cover the other drain with a wet plug or towel to make an airtight seal. Firmly Press down and pull up with the plunger 10 to 15 times, then remove the plunger from the drain. If the water drains down, the obstruction is gone. Repeat this at least three more times before passing.
  3. Put on your rubber gloves and get the plumbing snake. For unscreened cable drains (toilets and sinks with the plug removed), carefully place the end of the plumbing snake down the drain and turn the handle to feed the snake into the tube. When you come in contact with the clog, reverse first and then move again to chew on the clog, then turn the regulator valve full force down. For selected drains, remove the screen and follow the indicated procedures. For the kitchen sink, the pipe snake below the garbage disposal.

How to place a plumbing system in a Camper

The vehicle must have a large enough water reserve tank (or provide circuit transmissions to a water source) and a fully functional delivery system. The system will consist of a water tank, a pump that works when the caravan is parked away from a power connection, appliances, proper plumbing that feeds each appliance and a sewer system that accepts, stores and allows the disposal of waste. Putting a pipe system in a caravan is a complex but rewarding project.

  1. Decide on a water tank that suits your purposes. The size will be a compromise between the amount of water you will store and the amount of space you will occupy. The tank should be low on the vehicle – as close to the center of the chassis as possible. And in a place where the hoses can be run to and from without serious inconvenience
  2. Decide on a pump that works when the caravan is parked away from a power connection. The pump should run on 12 volt electricity and be of the “demand” type, which means that it should turn on automatically when it detects that the pressure in the system is reduced, such as when a faucet is open, and then it will turn off again when the pressure returns to its adjustment value. Place the pump near the water tank, and fit it with a one-way valve to prevent water from entering the storage tank and causing it to overflow.
  3. Decide on the necessary appliances so that you can fully enjoy your caravan. A typical system consists of sinks, both in the kitchen and the bathroom, a toilet and a bath / shower. Many campers also include a propane gas water heater as fuel.
  4. Draft a plumbing installation plan that feeds hot or cold water on all appliances. Consult the manufacturer’s information supplied with the water tank and all appliances, and buy pipe that will convey an adequate volume of water for each. Normally, appliance accessories will be 5/8-inch. If so, buy the 5/8-inch hose rated for drinking water. You will also have enough clamps to complete your project.
  5. Draft a sewer installation plan that accepts, stores and wastewater routes. All appliances must drain into a piping system installed the same as any home system, but the storage tanks under the vehicle are unique to the requirements of a caravan. You will need a gray water tank to hold waste from sinks and showers, and a black water tank to hold toilet waste. Place the black tank of water immediately below the location of the toilet, so that the outlet flow of the toilet can be connected directly to the tank inlet. Both tanks must also have a method of transferring waste was held in a dumping center.
  6. Plan two water entries. One will accept water from an unattached hose and the funnel down into the storage tank without pressure, that water is pressurized by the on-board pump. The other inlet should be the type to which a pressure hose can be connected so that the camper’s plumbing system is pressurized by the main one. It is called a “water” entry, it must have a pressure regulator for the pressure of the main one is not entered in the caravan plumbing.
  7. Place of the water entrance city in the quadrant of the rear driver’s side. Situation with the rest of hook-ups to connect to the campsites is convenient. Do not mount directly over the load area, where the shore power cord is maintained. You must have a potable-rated water hose to connect this accessory to the city’s water supply.

How to use plumber’s putty in bathroom drains

Plumber’s putty is moldable and is used to seal the joints of pipes to prevent water leaks. Bathroom sink drains are commonly sealed with plumber’s putty. When used properly, plumber’s putty provides an airtight seal that will remain leak-free for many years. Plumber’s putty is either oil or water based. Water-based balms are designed for use in materials that are stained if oil-based putty is used. If you are not sure of the composition of your sink, it is best to use water-based putty to avoid unwanted stains.

Instructions

  1. Clean the built-in area of ​​the kitchen or bathroom sink with the mastic knife to remove large debris that may interfere with the application of the plumber’s putty.
  2. Spray an ammonia-based cleaner around the base of the sink, and leave the cleaner to soak for a minute.
  3. Clean the recessed area of ​​the sink with a clean cloth. Use additional rags, if necessary, to ensure that the bottom of the drain is completely dry.
  4. Remove a piece of plumber’s putty the size of a coin from its container, and roll the plumber’s putty between your hands to form a rope that is 1/4 inch (0.65 cm) in diameter and about 5 inches (7.5 cm) in length.
  5. Place the plumber’s putty rope around the drain opening on the bottom of the sink. Once you have formed a circle of plumber putty, remove the excess rope that extends beyond the point where you started to put the rope of putty.
  6. Slide the sink drain into the opening at the bottom of the sink, surrounded by plumber’s putty, and install the sink drain as specified by the manufacturer. Squeeze the sink drain with a socket wrench to place it in the sink.
  7. Pass a 2 inch (5 cm) wide knife around the edge of the drain stack to cut out the putty that protrudes from below the sink drain.
  8. Replace excess plumber’s putty in the putty container for later use.
  9. Fill the sink with water after connecting the sink drain to the pipe to check for leaks. If a leak is observed, remove the drain from the sink, scrape the plumber’s putty from the drain, and re-apply putty as described in the previous steps.

Imagine that you have many years of not investing in your home’s plumbing

At night, the dripping of the sink ends the insomnia. In the garden the plants grow happily, drinking from the water that escapes from the underground pipe. Each toilet is a silent river that squanders the happy liquid without using it. There are leaks everywhere, and every month the bills go up. He urges you to do something about it.

Get a plumber. It’s a kind of three minus quart, what you’re willing to pay. The plumber takes out his tool, digs under the sink, and wields a shovel in the garden to unclog the pipe. Finish your evaluation and set the budget.

You have not made any repairs or maintenance for more than ten years. The gaskets are broken in all the taps. Your cistern is cracked. You have to change the pipe. You have to buy materials and spare parts. You have to dig and work to change everything. It will take days to complete the task.

You reject the recommendation and throw the plumber out of the house. There must be another cheaper one. The guy is long. Annoyed by the effort in vain, especially by your attitude, insults quietly when leaving: “And it’s ugly!”

Suffice the cartoon. If you have not identified the situation, here’s the key. The client is Guatemalan society. The plumber, his tax authorities. The broken and neglected plumbing is the public administration, so dilapidated. The proposed reparations are the tax reform, and the budget to pay is what we will have to pay. The bad blood with the plumber is the distrust of the Government, and the insult of that, the contempt towards the indignant demand of the citizenship.

There is only one objective fact in all of this: public administration is a disaster from decades of neglect. It will cost money and time to get it out of there. When the homeowner is angry, you will discover that it will be the same to look for another plumber, who will come with another repair account that will cost a lot of money.

Lenox plumbing tools

Whether you are a DIY plumber or a professional pipe smith, few people are eager to do plumbing work. Most recognize, however, that the right tools can make or break the job. For this, the company Lenox adds its offer of tools and manual to the mix. Although not a company specifically focused on plumbing, plumbing often employs the types of tools that Lenox manufactures and the company produces plumbing equipment.

About Lenox

Lenox began its life as a saw blade manufacturer in 1915. Since then, the company has expanded to a team of nearly 600 designers, manufacturers and testers at an 11-hectare facility in Longmeadow, Massachusetts. As of 2003, Lenox joined Newell Rubbermaid. Lenox focuses on the design and manufacture of accessories for power tools, hand tools, band saws, torches and welds.

Plumbing kit

Lenox offers welding kits that fit plumbing jobs. The company bills its 8 oz Premium Welding Kit as a “package for professional plumbing repairs.” The kit includes 8 ounces of lead-free solder, 1.7 ounces of water-soluble flux, 1/2-inch cable accessory brush, sand cloth and a flow brush. Lenox ‘4 oz. Plumbing kit focuses on plumbing, featuring four ounces of lead solder, an ounce of water soluble flux, a sand cloth and a flow brush.

Other plumbing tools

Lenox produces a range of carbide, bimetal and carbon band saws as well as sawing fluids and lubricants, useful for cutting pipes. Plumbing can employ Lenox line saw blades and reciprocating blades to make cuts on accessories, or the company line of metal and wood drill bits to make precision holes. Lenox brand cast aluminum pipe wrenches, utility knives, pipe cutters and saws – especially your nearby quarter saw – can be found in a plumber’s arsenal.

Availability of

Upon request, Lenox offers a catalog of supplier-oriented products. Interested parties can request a catalog on the official website of the company. Lenox distributes its tools for physical retail outlets, including family and largest chain of hardware stores and home improvement centers. Online hardware stores commonly stock as well as company products. When purchased new, Lenox covers its tools under manufacturer’s warranty for 90 days.

Most common plumbing problems

When we have a small problem of plumbing, plumbing or plumbing, we must act hastily to avoid accidents. But sometimes, during a simple repair, during a time of extreme cold or heat, or simply without a specific cause, there are serious problems in the installations of pipes and other, which become threats to the integrity of our home and of the inhabitants of it. In the plumbing should be given immediate solution to the smallest problems, as if it were serious emergencies.

This is because a minimum obstacle can, very quickly, become a major problem, without warning. If you are skilled, give solution on your own. If you do not have this knowledge or the appropriate tools, call the plumber quickly. Remember that these specialists are usually delayed due to their large amount of pending work. Do not wait for the problem to get worse, and give it the solution in time.

What to do in an emergency in plumbing

Among the problems of plumbing that we can recognize in the home, we will find the leaks of taps, the humidity in the walls, in the cabinets or in any area of ​​the structure, the loss of water heaters, sanitary backpacks and other water containers, and up to threads or dry moisture marks that appear on the floor or surfaces.

Remember that a small leak is not only a waste of water, but also a threat to your home. Water, with its components, constantly corrodes the fittings. In addition, it promotes an ideal humid environment for the formation of fungi and mold. In an emergency, such as the release of a sector of the faucet, an explosion of the pipe or another similar, the first thing you should do is cut or interrupt the passage of the Water. Before the time of safety arrives, make sure you know the exact location of the general water cutoff, just as you do with the gas pipes or electrical circuit of the home. Keep this sector free of obstacles, since in an emergency you will not have the time (or the patience) to be freeing the space to cut off the passage of water.

Plumber’s putty or teflon tape

While a single plumbing project might require both plumber putty and teflon tape, you cannot substitute one for another. Teflon tape provides a reliable seal in the joints of threaded pipe for liquids and gases that may be under considerable pressure. The plumber’s putty acts as a flexible sealant in situations where resistance is needed water, but cannot withstand any significant pressure.

Teflon tape

Teflon tape, also known as PTFE (polytetrafluoroethylene), is a thin film that functions as a sealant in threaded pipe joints. Different types and densities of PTFE tape are coded by colored for various uses. The white ribbon found in any hardware store or shop DIY is suitable for water supply pipes up to 3/8 inch (0.95 cm) in diameter. The yellow tape, which is twice as dense as white, is for use on gas lines. The red ribbon is for use on larger pipes 1/2 to 2 inches (1.3 to 5cm). There is also green ribbon for oxygen and medical gas lines, and copper, which acts as a lubricant rather than as a sealant.

Use teflon tape

Start at the end of the pipe with the male thread and wrap the ribbon around the thread in a clockwise direction, overlapping the previous half-turn until it reaches the end of the thread. The thin film will easily adapt to the contours of the threads. Screw the other side of the joint down to get a full seal and pressure resistant.

Plumber putty

The different brands of plumber putty have different ingredients. But all of them are repellent to the water, and all remain soft and flexible for a long time. This makes them ideal for applications where a waterproof reversible seal is required, but only when the seal will not be under pressure (because if the putty remains soft it will wash or leak). Typical domestic plumbing applications for putty are as a sealant between the base of a faucet and the surface of a sink, and between the trailing edge of a basket and a sink.

Use plumbing putty

In the event of a leak, put a generous layer of mastic around the bottom edge of the leak and then place it in the drain hole in the sink. Squeeze the drain underneath according to the instructions, and then wipe off excess putty with a damp cloth. For a faucet, use a thick cord of caulk around the faucet base prior to positioning it in the sink. Squeeze the faucet and wipe off excess caulk.

Alternatives

You should never have to choose between Teflon tape and plumber putty, because they do not do the same job. However, there are alternatives for each. Some plumbers prefer to use a liquid compound for pipes (also called “pipe lacquer”) instead of tape. And in some cases, such as in granite, where plumber’s putty is undesirable because it can cause stains, and silicone putty is a better choice.

Plumbing problems

When we have a small problem of plumbing, plumbing or plumbing, we must act hastily to avoid accidents. But sometimes, during a simple repair, during a time of extreme cold or heat, or simply without a specific cause, there are serious problems in the installations of pipes and other, which become threats to the integrity of our home and of the inhabitants of it.

In the plumbing should be given immediate solution to the smallest problems, as if it were serious emergencies. This is because a minimum obstacle can, very quickly, become a major problem, without warning. If you are skilled, give solution on your own. If you do not have this knowledge or the appropriate tools, call the plumber quickly. Remember that these specialists are usually delayed due to their large amount of pending work. Do not wait for the problem to get worse, and give it the solution in time.

“When we have a small problem of plumbing, we must act hastily to avoid accidents.”

What to do in an emergency in plumbing

Among the problems of plumbing that we can recognize in the home, we will find the leaks of taps, the humidity in the walls, in the cabinets or in any area of ​​the structure, the loss of water heaters, sanitary backpacks and other water containers, and up to threads or dry moisture marks that appear on the floor or surfaces.

Remember that a small leak is not only a waste of water, but also a threat to your home. Water, with its components, constantly corrodes the fittings. In addition, it promotes an ideal humid environment for the formation of fungi and mold.

In an emergency, such as the release of a sector of the faucet, an explosion of the pipe or other similar, the first thing you should do is cut or interrupt the passage of water. Before the time of safety arrives, make sure you know the exact location of the general water cutoff, just as you do with the gas pipes or electrical circuit of the home. Keep this sector free of obstacles, since in an emergency you will not have the time (or the patience) to be freeing the space to cut off the passage of water.

“In your toolbox there must be clamps that allow you to fasten or adjust the plumbing elements.”

If the problem or the emergency has occurred in a specific sector of the house (for example, if you have released the bathroom faucets) you can make a partial cut. Therefore, it is important to provide for centralized cuts at the time of construction or expansion of the home.

Keep the tools always at hand. In your toolbox there must be clamps that allow you to fasten or adjust the plumbing elements. You can also have repair parts, and even plumbing sealants and silicones, to give precise and effective solution to small problems or large emergencies with specificity.